Land of the Manifold

The villages of Ilam and Alstonefield lie within the Peak District National Park between the Rivers Dove and Manifold. Ilam was rebuilt to give the appearance of an alpine village to complement Ilam Hall, home of the Watts-Russell family and now run by the National Trust as a very elegant Youth Hostel. St. Bertram is buried in the accompanying church and the whole estate is a delight to visit. The River Manifold is famous for disappearing! In the summer, it flows underground for part of its course in this area of limestone, only to bubble up again below the Hall at a point known as the boilholes. In the winter it usually flows throughout its length.
Alstonefield was an important focus of packhorse trade in days of yore and nearby Milldale has an outstanding example of a packhorse bridge. It is easy to imagine the pack trains of up to a hundred ponies being led by their jagger, or handler, and the jaggers quenching their thirst at one of the village inns before heading off to distant markets. Today the village bustles with travellers of a different kind as it is on the route of many walks in this area of the White Peak. There are so many places to see: for example, nearby Wetton hosts the world toe-wrestling championships!
The countryside boasts some oustanding views, with drystone walls and grazing sheep giving a timeless feel to the landscape. If possible, approach Ilam from nearby Blore. This descent gives a spectacular view of the entance to nearby Dovedale, dominated by the flat-topped hill of Thorpe Cloud.
The Trail is not long, but you will be rewarded by taking your time and absorbing the quiet beauty of this area of Staffordshire. There is one climb up a sloping path, but it can be completed with pushchairs with some moderate effort. Some narrow gates may be circumvented by determined Trailers in wheelchairs, but it is not an easy Trail for them to attempt. Places to rest, to picnic or to purchase refreshments abound, and the National Trust Shop and exhibition are a must. They are open from 11-5 daily from Easter to October, then 11-4 at weekends. The exhibition needs to be viewed to solve a clue, so plan your Trail accordingly.
The whole Trail can be walked or cycled, although the roads are narrow and rise and fall with the terrain in this upland area. Parking is free in Alstonefield, but you may need to pay in Ilam if the roadside spaces are already occupied when you arrive, leaving you no choice but to use the National Trust car park at the Hall. An early start and a leisurely day is surely the best way to get the most out of this Trail, but don't forget to solve the clues too!